The pedal box consists of Wilwood brake and clutch pedals, a F5 clutch quadrant and an accelerator pedal. The pedal box photo album is here. The clutch head (clutch quadrant) is built up from the pieces you see on the top of the photo, below left; the completed clutch quadrant is shown below right. The clutch cable fits into a slot created by the assembly. The assembly
attaches to the top of the clutch pedal (below left). The pedal and assembly needed some sizing to get the pedal top into the clutch cable assembly (below right).
Pedal box and hanger.
Pedal box with the clutch pedal, clutch quadrant and brake pedal.
[Subsequent to this, Blueprint Engines supplied me with a TKX transmission with a hydraulic clutch. I replaced the mechanical clutch, described above, with a master cylinder.]
The F5-supplied gas pedal is shown below left. Factory Five recently modified the DS footbox to accommodate the Ford Coyote engine by moving the inboard DS footbox panels inward. The result is an interference of the gas pedal by the footbox Al. There were several options for improving the fit including modifications to the DS aluminum or remounting the gas pedal. I decided to purchase a Rus Thompson gas pedal and the interference problem was solved.
Rus Thompson gas pedal, below left and right.
Subsequently, I changed out the F5-supplied throttle cable for one by Lokar (Lokar TC-1000H36) and a Lokar stainless steel throttle bracket for the Holly Sniper EFI (TCB-40HS).
I have to say that I’m not that impressed with the throttle cable bracket. I’m concerned that over time the arm holding the spring will weaken through work hardening— one can see a slight deflection each time the throttle pedal is depressed. Additionally, there is a small set screw (shown in the center of the photo below) whose purpose is to keep the bracket from rotating by pressing into the Sniper housing. When I first attached the bracket, the set screw kept sliding along the Sniper housing when the pedal was presse, allowing the bracket to rotate. To eliminate this problem, I drilled an indentation into the hosting to seat the screw. Its has worked well but the necessity to do this suggests a poor design.
The indentation created in the Holley Sniper housing to keep the bracket from rotating:
To use the Lokar cable I needed to modify Russ Thompson’s pedal:
The offset from the pedal is so that the cable goes squarely into the cable housing, minimizing rubbing and wear.
I purchased the 36” long cable and it is in the usual ’S’ configuration. Some builders have complained that there is a fair amount of friction between the cable and stainless steel sheath. I also found this to be true. I alleviated the problem by filling the annulus of the cable with a dry teflon lubricant. Once I’m finally satisfied with the configuration I’ll secure the cable with a hose clamp to the footbox.
